Hair Pollution

Maximize Your Mane Without Pillaging The Planet

Let’s talk about hair. The astonishingly wonderful Fleabag said it best: “Hair is everything. We wish it wasn't so we could actually think about something else occasionally. But it is. It's the difference between a good day and a bad day. We're meant to think that it's a symbol of power, that it's a symbol of fertility…Hair is everything.” The wonderfully astonishing Samantha Jones said it second best: “My hair is my thing.”

Hair styling contains multitudes: self-expression, gender expression, practicality, cultural traditions, historical significance, and even creating community and a sense of shared identity. But unfortunately, hair styling—with the exception of the most utilitarian of practical styles—often requires three things that are terrible for the environment: heat styling, toxic-chemical-containing products, and packaging said products in single-use, non-recyclable containers that end up in a landfill and/or incinerator. The multi-billion-dollar hair care industry plays a gargantuan role in the climate crisis, accounting for the creation of literally 8 billion units of plastic for product distribution in a single year. Only about 9% of that plastic is actually recycled. Heat styling tools of course require energy, sometimes using power sources for long periods of time, and their repeated use over time damages the hair, creating a need for more products that offer heat protection and damage restoration. Those products notoriously contain things like palm oil, which is problematic due to the effect that its harvesting has on the surrounding ecosystems, as well as a litany of gross chemicals that end up in our waterways.

The obvious solution here is to do less with your hair: less heat-styling, less color-treating, and definitely less hair-spraying, as aerosolized products have a well-documented adverse effect on ground-level ozone production. However, doing less with your hair is a tough sell for a maximalist like me, whose hair is her “thing”. Long, thick, voluminous, jet-black hair has been my signature look my whole life, barring one brief tryst with an ill-advised pixie cut in the sixth grade. I’ve never colored my hair, but I’ve blow-dried and flat-ironed my hair into submission for the better part of two decades. I’ve worn extensions, straightened and THEN curled my hair (make it make sense), and doused my hair with enough slimy and sticky product to immobilize even the most wayward tresses.

We can blame internalized misogyny and Eurocentric beauty ideals for this, but regardless of the reasons, my natural 3A type curls almost never see the light of day. Recently, I’ve sought to shed the bonds of Eurocentric feminine beauty standards and accept (if not embrace) my natural hair. In case you haven’t figured it out yet, “natural” isn’t really my look. But I am making a conscious effort to keep my hair healthier by prioritizing moisture and significantly reducing my heat styling regimen. If you’re at all familiar with the “Curly Girl Method”, however, you know that the prevailing narrative is that curly hair needs a veritable fecal load of product to promote moisture retention, eliminate unsightly frizz, and maintain curl definition. We’re talking deep conditioners, special shampoo, leave-in conditioner, curl cream, curl gel, curl mousse, oils/serums, and hair masks, all of which translates into an incredible amount of wasted plastic and product runoff into the water supply.

So if straightening my hair is bad for the environment, and maintaining my curly hair is bad for the environment, what’s an ethical maximalist to do? I like to change up my look and experiment with different styles, whether curly or straight, and waste is generated no matter what I do. Here’s what I’ve started doing in the interest of creating a more sustainable hair-routine:

Using refillable containers.

Refillable dispensers, BPA-free / $29.99, from Evil Empire Amazon

Not only does a set of refillable dispensers add a certain aesthetic to your shower, this is an idiot-proof way to reduce non-recyclable plastic waste. Buy the shampoo, conditioner, and body wash in bulk and keep the big ole containers under the sink for refilling purposes when the time comes.

2. Replacing chemical products with natural ones.

I’m not even going to pretend like this is easy, but just stay with me. Deep conditioners and hair maskers are a scam. You know what flawlessly deep-conditions and restores dry, frizzy, textured hair? Coconut oil. You know what’s a main ingredient in many of those ultra-processed deep conditioners that come in a non-recyclable plastic container and cost $45 and only contain enough product for two uses? Coconut oil. So why not just…use the coconut oil that costs $8 for a big glass jar at Marshall’s, and can also be used to make vegan cookie dough?

If you’re not keen on raiding the pantry for hair care products, however, A Simple Planet is a delightful, eco-friendly company that sells all-natural, cruelty free hair care products, many of which are specifically designed for curl-friends. They also offer refill pouches to reduce plastic container waste.

3. Decreasing ‘poo frequency.

Flyaway Hair Shampoo Bar / $13.95, from Lush

Daily shampooing is an absolute HARD pass for curl-friends, as shampooing dries out you hair and reduces the natural oils that keep your hair soft and shiny. Another reason to avoid excessive ‘pooing is the amount of water that inevitably ends up getting wasted in the process, about 150 gallons per household per month. Also, most shampoos consist of up to 80% water anyway, another troubling source of water waste. A reasonable alternative is solid shampoo. Unlike liquid shampoo, these solid chunks of shampoo are activated by the water in your shower, and are extra eco-friendly on account of the lack of plastic packaging. Bar soap is a thing, so why not bar shampoo? (The more you type the word “shampoo”, the weirder it looks.)

There are many terrific compilations of eco-friendly hair-care products for all different hair types and styling needs, but my goal is not to encourage anyone to buy more things. We all buy too many things as it is. What I do want to encourage is adopting an intentional approach to sustainable hair care that involves minimizing heat styling, avoiding products that contain palm oil, and using natural alternatives to chemical, highly processed products to achieve the same (if not better) results. There is also absolutely NO reason to shampoo your hair every day, not only because it’s terribly wasteful, but because it WILL dry out your hair and leave you with fried, frizzy, dull locks. No thanks. I’m doing my best to wean myself off my flat iron addiction and experiment with natural hair looks, including protective styles like braids and updos that require less styling product, but this is a process. I adore the way that silky, straight hair looks on me, yet I also love the versatility of a wide range of hair looks. It’s okay to experiment with a variety of styles, textures, colors, and cuts, but don’t go crazy with the ‘pooing, and try your best to avoid nasty, processed chemicals and non-recyclable plastic containers. As a wise prophet once said, hair is everything, so enjoy it.